You're right.
But there ways to achieve that.
For example you can restrict some menus to the mobile version of the template.
That way, you could duplicate your products listing menu and have one which would display for the mobile version and another one for the normal version.
Then, in the hikashop options of the menu, you could change the number of columns, images size, etc so that it fits properly.
That's not responsive but it already helps a lot for listings.
Then, for then product page, you could change a bit the code to adapt it based on the current menu:
global $Itemid;
if($Itemid==XX){
// display one way
}else{
// display another way
}
where XX would be the id of a menu.